SHIZUOKA CITY KANKO NAVI

　A dish consisting of grated wild yam served over barley rice is generally known as “mugitoro.” While there are restaurants in Tokyo that serve it, they are often high-end kaiseki restaurants where it’s not something you can casually enjoy, or, if you’re looking for a more affordable option, the wild yam is sometimes substituted with Japanese yam."I want to eat my fill of natural yam tororo at an affordable price"—if I hear there’s a town where several restaurants compete to fulfill that wish, I simply must go there no matter what.

　That town is Mariko in Suruga Ward, Shizuoka City—a post town that has walked hand in hand with the history of the Tokaido Road. Incidentally, in Shizuoka City (formerly Suruga), no one calls it “Mugitoro.” This is because, as depicted in Hiroshige’s woodblock prints, it has a traditional name: “Tororo-jiru.”

Maruko's Chojiya, founded in 1586.

This is Maruko-juku’s specialty: tororo soup. It is mentioned in Basho’s haiku as “Ume Wakana, Maruko-juku’s tororo soup,” and Jippensha Ikku also featured it in his work *Tokaidochu Hizakurige*.

"There are a lot of restaurants in Maruko that serve tororo soup, and they're all competing with each other," I was told. It's a level of deliciousness that transcends the modern concept of "gourmet"—I was completely hooked. I seriously considered trying to visit every single one.

Mr. Shibayama, the 14th-generation head of Chojaya, gave us a tour of the post town of Maruko. He’s a dependable young leader who spares no effort for anyone.

This is Shibayaji Temple on Mount Togetsu. Its garden, known as a “borrowed-scenery garden” for the way it incorporates the surrounding natural landscape, dates back to the Warring States period (the Imagawa era in the Sunpu region). A tea room dating from a time even earlier than Sen no Rikyū also remains here.

Seigan-ji Temple. The tomb of Katagiri Katsumoto, who worked tirelessly to negotiate during the Siege of Osaka, remains here. This place also served as a stage in the history of Tokugawa Ieyasu’s unification of Japan.

The Ōdatara Fudōson, managed by Seigan-ji Temple. It has a unique atmosphere and is popular locally as a spiritual power spot.

A taiyaki shop I passed on the way to Fudōson. I was completely blown away by the giant taiyaki, which was a whopping 60 centimeters long.

"Sunpu Takumi-shuku," a facility where visitors can experience traditional crafts.

I tried my hand at "Suruga Take Sen-suji Zai-ku" (Suruga bamboo weaving). All the necessary materials and tools are provided. It’s also fun to pick out a craft item to take home as a souvenir.

I walk along the old Tōkaidō Road from Maruko-juku toward Utsunoya Pass. The townscape evokes memories of days gone by.

At Utsunoya Pass, there are four tunnels built during different eras: the Meiji, Taisho, Showa, and Heisei periods. This is the "Meiji Tunnel," renowned for its beautiful brickwork.

・Takumi-yado: A Hands-On Facility for Crafts and History

・Roadside Eco-Museum: Tokaido 2 Passes, 6 Post Stations – Suruga Aindo

・Maruko Café @ Maruko Town Development Council