SHIZUOKA CITY KANKO NAVI

“Mount Kunō is the innermost bailey of Sunpu Castle. You must defend Mount Kunō.”

　These were the words Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu commanded his vassal, Sakakibara Teruhisa, who wished to join the Battle of Osaka. Although Lord Ieyasu held real power as the “Great Elder” at Sunpu Castle, he may have considered this Mount Kunō, rather than Sunpu Castle itself, to be the true center of his unification of the realm.

　Lord Ieyasu passed away at Sunpu Castle on April 17, 1616 (Genna 2). In accordance with his final wishes, he was buried here on Mount Kunō that very day, and the following year, the Imperial Court bestowed upon him the divine title “Tōshō Daigongen,” deifying him.

　Kunozan Toshogu became the first shrine dedicated to Lord Ieyasu, and its main hall—the origin of the Gongen-zukuri architectural style—still retains the beauty of four hundred years ago.

　At Kunozan Toshogu, an annual festival is held on April 17, the anniversary of Lord Ieyasu’s death. In 2015, the “400th Anniversary Grand Festival” was held over five days, including the anniversary.On the anniversary of his death, the head of the Tokugawa main family—who is invited annually to serve as the presiding priest—visits the mausoleum (Tokugawa Ieyasu’s tomb), a scene that was featured on NHK’s national broadcast and became a topic of conversation. Additionally, the city of Shizuoka held the “Tokugawa Ieyasu 400th Anniversary Festival.”

　The clock in the photo was a gift to Lord Ieyasu from the King of Spain. If you stop by the Kunozan Toshogu Museum, you can see Lord Ieyasu’s personal belongings and other valuable treasures.

The approach begins at the foot of Mount Kunozan, along the coast of Suruga Bay, a place famous for its Ishigaki strawberries. Mount Kunozan itself has been strictly guarded as the tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu.

The term “Gochinza” refers to the deification of Tokugawa Ieyasu as Tōshō Daigongen following his death. The stone wall, which was repaired to mark the 400th anniversary of his enshrinement, stands to the right as we begin climbing the stone steps.

The 1,159 stone steps are often described as “a real slog.” Once you get used to them, it takes about 15 minutes one way; if you take breaks, it’s about 25 minutes. They say the Shinto priests climb these steps every day, but if you take the ropeway from Nihondaira, you can get there easily in just five minutes.

In front of the "First Gate," near the top of the climb. The view of Suruga Bay from there. The Toshogu Shrine main hall is built with Mount Fuji behind it and facing Omaezaki.

The majestic gate. The characters "Tōshō Daigongen" were written by Emperor Go-Mizunoo.

The view of the shrine grounds as you pass through the main gate. Beyond the torii gate lies the Karamon gate, and the main hall stands beyond that.

The view of the shrine grounds as you pass through the gate. Beyond the torii gate lies the Karamon gate, and the main hall lies beyond that.

The sculpture titled "Sima Guang Splitting the Turtle" is located at the front of the worship hall. It is adorned with decorations that pray for peace and emphasize the sanctity of life.

I made a request for a prayer service and was allowed to enter the main hall. The interior was dazzlingly colorful.

The shrine gate on the left side of the main hall. It marks the entrance to the shrine (the tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu), which was closed to the public until 50 years ago.

The "Shinbyo," the tomb of Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu, the Divine Lord, which the Edo Shogunate has secretly guarded all these years. No matter when you visit, a sacred atmosphere pervades the air.

Mount Fuji lies to the northeast (the "demon gate"), and Omaezaki to the southwest (the "rear demon gate"). Some theories suggest that Mount Kunō serves as the origin point of Japanese feng shui.

・Kunozan Toshogu Shrine

・Kunozan Toshogu Museum

・Twitter: Kunozan Toshogu Shrine Official Account

・Nihondaira Ropeway

・The Tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu: "Quarterly Sunpu" Sunpu Net

・Shizuoka Prefecture / Kunō Ishigaki Strawberry Picking

・Hōdai-in Betsuin (Former Shōkyū-ji)